Introduction: Where the City Breathes Stories
I grew up wandering through the alleys of Kathmandu and studied at the Newar Community area in Kathmandu, where my friends were almost all from the Newar community. From my childhood, I learned to walk in the rhythm of Newari music, which still makes me dance. When I understood the significance of Newari tradition and culture, I have been following almost every ritual and custom of the Newars. The surprising connections to the temples and the associated legends and myths make Kathmandu mysterious, even the modern intricacies engulf it. We regularly roam in the alleys, courtyard, Bahal, temples, Stupas, and the beautiful Kathmandu Durbar Square. One of the casual lunch hour walk around Thamel, Thahiti, Itumbahal, Indrachwok, Kathmandu Durbar Square, and Shreegha becomes a memorable and spiritual walk. Nepal festival tour means it is all about the Kathmandu Valley tour, as the capital city celebrates a festival every single day. It is believed that Kathmandu city was established with the aid of Tantra and the protective goddesses Bhairav and Astamatrika. The shape of the ancient city of Kathmandu is similar to a Sword, which is protected in each direction by Astamatrika and Bhairav. The story of King and Goddess Taleju, the legends of Indra Jatra, the popular street festival Gai Jatra, and the one-month-long Gunla Parva all hold surprises and mysteries. Without any plan, we decided to walk through the alley to reach Kathmandu Durbar Square, where we are going to taste the popular Thela Chat. Besides that, we were not thinking of what was next for us. Fortunately, our legs move forward following the heritage of Kathmandu by crossing the hustle and bustle of Thamel to Basantapur Durbar Square. The journey itself passes through time, cultural values, traditions, and the taste of local cuisine.
Thamel to Thahiti: Into the Winding Gallis
Sometimes we do experiment and like to feel different, as we regularly explore new things and learn and understand the facts and myths. We decided to stroll around Thamel up to Kathmandu Durbar Square. We started to walk near the LOD club, following Bhagwati temple, Narshing Chowk to Thahiti. The street of Thamel is colorful, chaotic, and full of life. The small Chaitya at the center of Thahiti chwok reflects the significance of Buddhism in Kathmandu. As we further walked, we encountered a beautiful courtyard showcasing a stupa of Shrigha, at present Shigal. We continued walking following narrow and dark alleys to reach Basantapur Durbar Square.
Indrachok to Basantapur: Where Culture Meets Majesty
We forgot to visit Akash Bhairav, located west of Indrachwok, as the stone paving is going on in the main street. We bypass the street and follow a narrow alley to go to Hanumandhoka Durbar, where we encounter a gigantic statue of Kal Bhairav. For a moment, we stood in front of Kal Bhairab, joining hands and getting some feelings of energizing and calmness as we had a high level of reverence. We walked further to enter the Durbar Square premises, and suddenly our thought process rewound in Ancient days as we were dreaming of those golden eras of art and architecture. Every time I visit Kathmandu Durbar Square, I feel something new and vibrant within the towering pride of our history and culture. The premises will be colorful and vibrant with the presence of huge masses and music during the Gai Jatra and Indra Jatra festivals. If you wish to know more about the Gaijatra Festival tour and the Indra Jatra Festival tour, please follow our itinerary and blogs.
Street Flavors and Friendly Chats
At the western north corner of Durbar Square, a small local Thela(small cart) offers a spicy mix of Samosa Chat with curd and without curd. The hot soup mixed with samosa, onion, and curd makes the flavor superb. All of us enjoyed the chat and listening to the stories of serving snacks here for two decades. The cost is minimal as it is mixed with local flavor and purity. We were sweating due to the hot and spicy sauces. Again, we follow the same direction to return to our workplace, Thamel.
Sweet Relief at Hanuman Dhoka’s Famous Lassi
While returning, we decided to taste the famous lassi at the end of the Hanuman Dhoka premises. The creamy lassi, topped with dry fruits, coconut, and cardamom served to us by a shopkeeper. If you visit Durbar Square, a local drink with a unique flavor and taste which you may try once.
Sacred Stillness at Itum Bahal
We are fortunate to be there in the holy place of Itum Bahal and witness of evening parade to mark the beginning of Gunla Parva, a Buddhist festival. The ancient Buddhist serenity where Hindu devotion confluences. The glory of the Newari civilization can be felt while resting at the corner of Itum Bahal. Butter lamps flickered in the shadows, and a gentle breeze carried the scent of incense. We sat in silence for a while, absorbing the calm and watching devotees preparing for an evening parade. We circumambulate the stupa and pass silently to reach Shreegha, currently Shigal.
A Sweet Farewell at Shreegha
Before returning to Thamel, we decided to make one final detour — circling back to Shreegha, a place we had passed earlier but saved for a quiet return.
A small courtyard possesses a historic stupa surrounded by residential homes and small outlets of handicrafts, a Thanka shop, and many more. We were feeling tired as our legs signaled that we were tired. We took a rest after a long walk and treated ourselves to mango-flavored ice cream from a small corner vendor nearby. It felt like the perfect way to end the day — something sweet, cool, and calming amid the warm spirituality of the place. We discussed the significance of these historic places, laughed, cherished the moment, and somehow, we completed the heritage walk.
Returning Through the Shadows — and Sounds of Gunla
Still, there were surprises for us while we made our way back to Thamel via the intimate alleys of the old city. As we passed through Thahiti Chowk, we were met with a local Newar community band playing traditional Gunla music, marking the beginning of this sacred Buddhist month. The spellbound rhythms of flutes, dhaa drums, and cymbals echoed between the alley walls, drawing locals and wanderers like us into their spiritual procession. We capture the cherished moment in our mobile phones while standing on the sidelines of the alley, soaking in the sound — both festive and meditative — feeling grateful to witness such a timeless tradition unfold so organically.
Reflections: Kathmandu as a Living Museum
The lights were already blinking in the street of Thamel as we reached there. Our feet were tired, but our hearts were full. What began as a simple walk with friends turned into a pilgrimage through heritage — filled with sounds, flavors, and spiritual surprises.
Kathmandu isn’t a city you visit — it’s one you feel, live, and remember. If you wish to see the Kathmandu Heritage tour, please feel free to write us. Please give us feedback after reading the blog.
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